By Iris Petrova...
If you've ever spotted a funky mix of colors and wild prints on Sex and the City or stumbled upon a gem while scrolling through Depop or Poshmark, chances are you've encountered Custo Barcelona. This iconic brand is making a comeback among vintage fashion enthusiasts, driven by the resurgence of its colorful and youthful 2000s pieces, which are being rediscovered and sold on resale platforms.
Custo Barcelona’s identity was shaped by an 80,000-kilometer intercontinental motorcycle journey in the late 1970s, taken by brothers Ángel Custodio Dalmau and David. Initially drawn to Southern California’s surf culture, they were captivated by its simple yet striking graphic elements—scenes of the sun, waves, and palm trees. Their travels through Alaska, California, New York, Central and South America, Africa, Greece, and Holland became a transformative journey, a "school of life." Inspired by the beauty, culture, and people they encountered, the brothers returned to Spain with a passion for translating their experiences into a graphic design project—using clothing as their canvas. Their collections became a vibrant mosaic of the places they had seen and the people they had met.
At just 20 and 23 years old, with no formal fashion training, the duo began experimenting with screen printing. Their first garment, a menswear piece, was manually crafted in their small Barcelona office and sold in 1981. Their bold, artistic style—characterized by vibrant colors, intricate designs, and mixed textures—stood in stark contrast to the muted European fashion trends of the time. They expanded their collections to include men’s, women’s, and children’s fashion, opening several stores across Spain. Inspired by masters of color like Matisse and the visionary architecture of Barcelona’s Antonio Gaudí, their designs evolved over decades, continually pushing the boundaries of innovation. Embracing gender fluidity and celebrating life in full color, they created a fashion statement that resonated widely, eventually expanding into the U.S. market.
Fall / Winter 2000
Fall / Winter 2002
In 1994, a slowdown in the Spanish market pushed Custo Barcelona to expand into the U.S. Their initial attempt in Chicago proved challenging, as 90s minimalism and the Midwest’s cold climate weren’t ideal for their bold aesthetic. But a trip to California—the brand’s original source of inspiration—sparked a revival. After tirelessly showcasing their designs at trade shows, they began attracting buyers and caught the attention of Hollywood stylists. This led to organic exposure, with their pieces appearing in Jackie Brown, Sex and the City, Friends, and even on Julia Roberts, who purchased an item herself. These moments gave the brand a viral presence before social media even existed.
Julia Roberts in Custo Barcelona in Runaway Bride, 1999.
By the early 2000s, Custo Barcelona had secured a spot on the New York Fashion Week calendar and opened a flagship store in Soho. Their playful, graphic-heavy designs aligned with broader industry trends, reflected in collections like Christian Dior’s Spring/Summer 2005 and Issey Miyake’s 2004 collaboration with Aya Takano.
Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2005 RTW
Issey Miyake X Aya Takano 2004
In 2012, Custo Barcelona struggled with internal management issues and shareholder disagreements, leading to a decline in its once-vibrant presence in the fashion industry. Runway shows stopped, flagship stores closed, and its influence faded. In 2019, an attempted revival came through a licensing agreement with Aeffe, the Italian group behind Moschino. However, despite efforts to reclaim its market position, the brand never fully regained its footing. Today, Custo Barcelona still appears at New York, Barcelona, and Madrid fashion weeks and operates an online store, but its current designs lack the youthful MyScene energy that once defined them—making vintage pieces from past collections feel even more special... shop the curated collection of vintage Custo Barcelona pieces right here on Holy Thrift!
References
https://youtu.be/E_u7ZTO5RJo?si=rvZRCVazM9iuO-xs
https://youtu.be/USK3mdlS-PU?si=qyaQgylTpHnJZZQz
https://wwd.com/feature/custo-barcelona-plans-next-moves-velmar-license-1203342869/
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