Dressing for Your Venus
By: Devin Miles... Venus rules over many aspects of our lives, including relationships, style, and how we appreciate and interpret art. She influences our sense of beauty and harmony, guiding what we find attractive and...
The Democratization of Designer Fashion Through Vintage
By: Iris Petrova...
Earlier this year, I decided to part with all of my purses and began an obsessive search for the ultimate vintage designer "it" bag. My journey led me deep into the archives of Tumblr and Pinterest, where I became captivated by cult classics from Phoebe Philo's Chloé era—like the Silverado, Kerala, and Paddington—as well as iconic designs such as the Dior Gaucho bag and the YSL Mombasa. This rabbit hole wasn’t just my own; I noticed a growing fascination with vintage designer pieces in my shopping habits, on social media, and in my local vintage community here in Chicago. As someone who shops and resells vintage alongside other vendors, we’ve all noticed the recent uptick in consumers embracing vintage designer as an accessible entry point into the world of luxury.
Chloé Spring Summer 2005 Campaign, John Galliano for The House of Dior, Autumn/Winter 2006, Ready to Wear-Dior Gaucho bag.
The numbers back up this observation. ThredUp’s annual Resale Report projects that the global secondhand market will grow to $350 billion. The RealReal's own report highlights a 14% increase in vintage designer sales across all generations.
This shift in consumer behavior is largely due to the increasing availability of fashion resale platforms, coupled with a cultural shift toward social and environmental awareness. In an era where individuality is celebrated, and fashion becomes a tool for self-expression, these platforms offer not only access to unique pieces but also the inspiration to tell stories through personal style.
Interestingly, the notion of vintage designer being a "trend" feels paradoxical—secondhand shopping isn’t a mass-market phenomenon. The vintage movement reflects a shift away from mindless consumption of fleeting trends toward a more deliberate and personal approach to fashion. Here, individuality and sustainability take precedence, creating a space where self-expression outweighs the allure of fast fashion.
The traditional fashion pyramid, with its hierarchical structure spanning haute couture, ready-to-wear, diffusion, bridge, and mass market, doesn’t account for the explosive growth of secondhand clothing—particularly vintage designer pieces. Vintage designer transcends this pyramid because it spans all five of the categories, making fashion accessible to anyone who wants to indulge.
The fashion industry has long been an elitist and exclusive community, catering to only those with disposable incomes to afford its garments. Before the rise of social media, gaining insight into the industry was primarily limited to magazines or attending runway shows. Now, with the overwhelming amount of information, conversations, and resources available, it’s easy for the average consumer to learn about fashion's past. Although platforms like The RealReal, Grailed, and Vestiaire offer a curated selection of second-hand designer. With little digging, one can find a bargain on platforms like eBay, Buyee, and Poshmark. The democratization of fashion through vintage is pushing the boundaries of how we engage with culture at large and ultimately giving more power back to the consumer.
Designer goods are inherently materialistic, but the vintage culture surrounding them transcends superficiality. TikTok, Reddit forums, and in-person vintage shopping events have not only created this demand for vintage, archival, and unique pieces but have also opened up the conversation around the history behind these pieces, redefining them as more than just symbols of status.
In Chicago, I've vended with Olio, a curated space that hosts vintage & vintage designer popups. These in-person events have allowed me to become part of a community that treats vintage clothing as more than just a commodity. It’s a celebration of history, craftsmanship, and self-expression.
Personally, I have been enamored with vintage pieces from brands such as Plein Sud, Cop Copine, Marithé et François Girbaud, Save The Queen, and Custo Barcelona, and I've noticed an increase in their popularity across social media as well. Many of these brands no longer produce clothing as they once did—or are no longer in business at all—making their pieces feel all the more special to own.
Marithe & Francois Girbaud Ready to Wear - Fall/Winter 2005
Owning something secondhand, with meticulous craftsmanship and a unique history, feels far more valuable to me than spending thousands on a brand-new Chanel flap.
And in case you’re wondering, it’s me and my vintage Miu Miu Vitello crossbody against the world these days...
References
The New York Times.
"Thrift and Vintage Stores Are Thriving, but What’s Behind Their Growth?" 2024. https://www.nytimes.com/2024/09/30/business/thrift-vintage-store-growth.html.
The Luxury Savvy.
"The Rise of Vintage Luxury: Why Iconic Designer Pieces Are More Popular Than Ever." 2024. theluxurysavvy.com.
The RealReal. "2024 Luxury Resale Report: The RealReal Reveals Top Brands and Trends." 2024. https://investor.therealreal.com/news-releases/news-release-details/2024-luxury-resale-report-realreal-reveals-top-brands-and-trends.
ThredUp. "Resale Market Insights: 2024 Report." 2024.
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